Sunday, March 25, 2012

Talking Techniques - Part 3a

Hi all:
Once again its been too long since I've said HI! Sorry but 'life' keeps interrupting our party. What's a girl to do? Believe it or not, I started this post over a month ago (sigh).

Well today I'm going to continue with my "Talking Techniques" series and talk about the eyes and eye shadow. There is so much on the topic I'm going to have to do a sequel on eyeliner and mascara application. All from Penny's experience of course. Hope it helpful.

Eye Shapes/Looks
Before applying eye shadow you should determine what shape of your eyes. I know it sounds like a bit much but it makes sense when you think about it. Different eye shapes require different techniques. In my research for this post I came across this diagram which I thought was pretty helpful. Below are the various techniques described (which I also hi-jacked off the Net. LOL)

Average: Apply contour (darker color) along lash line, then along crease for a V-shape. Blend the application. Create a wedge at the outer corner using an accent color. Line upper and lower lashes.

Wide Set: The emphasis is on the inside half of the eye above the crease. Apply contour shade along lash line from inside corner out, then back along crease to inner corner. Add an accent color in a small wedge at outer corner, being careful not to extend beyond the edge. Line upper lashes from corner to corner, adding a little lift at the outside. Line lower lashes and gently smudge.

Close Set: The emphasis is on the outer half of the eye. Apply contour shade along lash line and in the crease, starting above outer edge of iris, extending beyond outside corner and up. Blend the application. Make a large wedge at outer corner with the accent color. Line upper lashes from inside edge or iris past outside corner of eye. Emphasize mascara application on outer lashes.

Deep Set: The key is to lessen the shadows on the inside corner and make the brow bone area look less recessed. Apply more base color at the inside corner of the lid. Apply contour shade out along lash line and in along crease, stopping just above the inner edge of the iris. Add a little more color under lower lashes from inside edge of iris to outer corner. Add accent color lightly along crease, blending well. Line upper lashes from inside corner to just past outside corner, lower lashes from outside corner in to just below the pupil, gently smudging.

Prominent Lids: The key is to contour below the crease to draw attention away from how much lid is exposed and to emphasize the upper lash line. Add contour shade over entire eye socket, blending carefully. Apply accent color along lash line from inside corner to slightly past outside corner, then in below crease instead of along it. Line upper lashes from inside corner out, with the line getting thicker at the outside corner. Line lower lashes, then gently smudge upper and lower line application.

Hooded Lids: The key is to use color to make it seem as though more of the lid is showing. Apply contour shade on lid from corner to corner, extending slightly above crease, and under lower lashes, working from outside corner to inside edge of iris. Apply accent color close to lash line above center of pupil and blend outward. Line upper lashes corner to corner, lower lashes from outside corner to inside of iris. NOTE: Keep in mind that the wider the liner above the lashes, the less lid you will see. Penny has hooded eyes so to open up my eyes I started lining my upper water line (where the lashes come out of your lid) instead of above my lashes.
(read full story....)