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Be blessed. Be beautiful.

Penny

Tricks of the Trade - Eyes

Hola!
Over time Penny has spent countless hours researching beauty products and asked numerous professionals questions relative to make-up techniques and tools. I’ve mentioned these tips with in articles over the years but there is always something new to learn. Lately I have been scouring the many professional (and non-professional) make-up artist videos on YouTube for interesting tips and tricks for improving my make-up application…and finding new products to try. When it comes to make-up application there are definitely things that are the right (or wrong) way, but there are also lots of great tricks-of-the-trade that come from plain old trial and error. As the cosmetic industry grows, and technologies advance the make-up we're using today is definitely not your mother's make-up. LOL! So applying it the same way we did 10 years ago may not necessarily the best way.

 

Here are some of the more helpful tips that I've learned and tried recently with regards to eye make-up:

1. Use colored pencil eyeliner to make your powdered eye shadow pop and keep it in place longer. After preparing your eyelid with primer, use a soft kohl pencil or any type of long-wearing eyeliner as a base for your shadow. Good choices are Stila’s Kajal Eyeliner ($18, Sephora), Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide-on Eye Pencil ($18, Sephora), or NYX Jumbo Eye Pencils ($4.50, ULTA). Urban Decay also has a 24/7 Glide-on Shadow Pencil that they say is crease-proof and water-proof ($20, Sephora).
2. Use face powder under your eyeliner to keep it from running. This is a tip I saw on YouTube this week. Using an angled or flat eyeliner brush, lightly dust a little face powder (translucent or foundation powder) underneath your eyeliner to keep it from running. You can also use eye shadow directly on top of your eyeliner to keep it in place. I use Bobbi Brown’s espresso eye shadow over my black pencil eyeliner on my top lid to soften the look and keep in place. On my lower lash line I use a smudging technique and set with powder to keep my liner from running.

3. Use cream eye shadow as a base for powdered eye shadow to help it last longer and the color to show true. M.A.C’s Paint Pot and Bobbi Brown’s Long-wear Cream Shadow ($22) work well and lasts long. Good base colors are Painterly or Bare Study (MAC) and Cement or Bone (BB). Use a brush specifically for cream products or your finger to blend quickly and evenly over the lid.

4. Use a brush to apply pencil eyeliners. I have always had a hard time getting a straight line by directly applying pencil eyeliner to my lids. Well thanks to my YouTube gurus I now use two different eyeliner brushes to get my liner just right. I use a firm angled eyeliner brush to work the pencil into my upper lid (i.e. Sephora Platinum Angle Liner Brush #22, $16); and a round tipped pencil type brush to smudge my lower lash liner (i.e. Sephora Platinum Collection Smokey Eye Brush #24, $18). I love my long-wear gel eyeliners but I like now having a choice and being able to use pencils for a softer line.
5. After encountering concealer slippage over my dark under eye circles; where at the end of the day it looked as if my concealer ran or just wore off…I sought professional advice. A male make-up artist at Blue Mercury suggested I use a mattifying (oil-control) lotion or gel under the eye instead of oil based moisturizer. He also said to stop putting my make-up (face) primer under the eye because the silicone based primer could also be the culprit. Both suggestions helped. I just use a heavier under eye cream at bedtime but under my make-up I use lightweight eye cream (ReVive’ sample) or mattifying lotion. If you don’t already use something for shine control on your entire face, try an inexpensive product like Boots No7 Mattifying Makeup Base ($9.99 @ Target). Urban Decay, Philosophy, Estee Lauder, and Peter Thomas Roth also make more expensive mattifying lotions. [Note: Eyelid primer is sometimes recommended for under the bottom lash line to keep eyeliner and eye shadow in place]. 

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