Monday, January 30, 2012

Talking Techniques - Part 2

Hi all:
I apologize for the delay in bringing you Part 2 of Talking Techniques. My paying job had the nerve to actually get in the way of my blogging. LOL! This is a continuation of my previous post about make-up application and techniques. Hope it's helpful.

L'Oreal True Match SPF 17 ($10.99)
There are many foundation formulas and many ways to apply them.  I recommend asking a make-up professional for the best formula to suit your skin type and needs. Since Penny has dry/combination/maturing skin I often use cream foundation in the winter months and liquid in the summer months for lighter coverage. Right now I'm using Cover FX Cream Foundation. I use cream because it provides the best coverage for my melasma (dark patches); has great staying power, and doesn't feel heavy. In the warmer months I might use Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation SPF 15 or L'Oreal True Match liquid foundations. TIP: Always blend foundation from the center of the face outward. Be sure to blend well around the hairline. If you get any in your hair simply wipe away from the face with a towel.

I always set my foundation with powder. That keeps my foundation in place all day and gives me the matte finish I want. Right now I'm using MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish Natural because of its light texture and even wash of sheer color. Translucent powder or white powders tend to make me look ashen (especially in flash photography). I used to use a big powder brush to apply my finishing powder but recently picked up a tip online for applying it with a powder puff. The reason for this is because brushes can sometimes disturb the make-up underneath with the dragging motion used to apply the powder. While using a powder puff allows you to press the powder into the skin, keeping your foundation in tack. I simply tap the puff on the back of my hand to shake off any excess before lightly pressing it onto my skin all over. Be sure to check for even application.

Mineral (Powder) Foundation
Powder - Powder foundations are applied with a cosmetic puff, sponge or brush. Many come with their recommended applicator. Powder foundation can be layered to achieve the coverage you seek. Keep in mind that if you use a sponge applicator you should wash it often.  Mineral powder foundations have become very popular and often require that you use a brush to apply (buff) them into the skin. Mineral foundations are said to be best for people with easily irritated  skin. "What makes mineral makeup different from traditional makeup isn’t the ingredients it contains, but what’s left out. That list, for many leading brands, includes preservatives, parabens, mineral oil, chemical dyes, and fragrance. These are all possible causes of irritation, one reason many dermatologists recommend mineral makeup."  (see complete article at: Penny has not used a powder foundation in a while but thinks it works well for younger women, and/or  those with oily skin types. There is no need to "set" this foundation since it is already a powder and could look cakey if too much is applied.
Cream - Cream foundations are applied with a sponge or foundation brush. I use a Beauty Blender ($19, Sephora) to apply my cream foundation because I like the even finish. For those of you not familiar, a Beauty Blender is simply a pink egg-shaped sponge that shrinks when dry and becomes larger when dampened. Wet the sponge with water and squeeze out the excess. The sponge applies cream smoothly and evenly with a dabbing motion. Foundation brushes can sometimes leave streaks where a sponge gives more of an airbrush finish. There are other blending sponges available that
Blender Sponges
cost less and are said to have the same effect. I have not tried any other brand.

Liquid - Liquid foundations are applied with a sponge or foundation brush. But I actually like to apply mine with my finger tips. LOL! Simply dot your face with the product and then blend it all in with your finger tips. Again, remember to blend outward and blend well around the hair line. A sponge is good if you want light coverage as some of the product will soak into the sponge. I also use a foundation brush with my liquid foundation since it is a lighter consistency and doesn't tend to get streaky. Some like a 'dewy' finish to their make-up where liquid foundation is often used as a base because of its lightweight texture. Then mattes and highlighters are used to achieve a dewy, natural finish.

(read full story...)

NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer ($42, Nordstrom, 2/1/12)
Tinted Moisturizer - Some folks don't like the feel of foundation and don't need a lot of coverage but still want to even out their skin tone. Tinted Moisturizers have become popular amongst those who want light coverage and fewer steps to getting that flawless face. An added benefit is that most tinted moisturizers also contain sun protection factor (SPF). Tinted Moisturizer is best applied with your your fingers but can also be applied by sponge. Use the same steps mentioned above for applying liquid foundation. I have even made my own tinted moisturizer by mixing a little bit of liquid foundation with my moisturizer on the back of my hand before applying to my face as I would my regular moisturizer. Tinted moisturizer provides the most sheer coverage of all the foundations mentioned. Many people also set tinted moisturizer with a light dusting of translucent or finishing powder.
Other formulas available are cream-to-powder and liquid-to-powder foundations (which Penny has not had any experience with). They are simply blended into the skin the same way you would with regular cream or liquid foundations. The difference is that they dry to a powdery finish.

NOTE: The most important things to remember about foundation application is to make sure you have the right tool for the formula you choose, you match your skin tone, and you blend...Blend...BLEND!

Blush might seem unnecessary to some but it is a great, quick, pick-me-up for the face. It completes a make-up look, and helps to contour the face. Blush typically comes in powder formulas but can also be found in cream, mousse and cream-to-powder formulas. Penny also notices some of the multi-use products also provide a liquid formula that can be used on lips and cheeks (i.e. Benefit's  Benetint and Posietint Lip & Cheek Stains)
MAC Vintage Grape
Ombre Blush ($26)

Penny was never a big blush person (think "rouge" from back in the day) but I have never gone without it because it completes my look. It is the best finishing touch and I have been experimenting with it more lately. I believe the best advice to give in regards to applying blush is to use the right tools and start with a "light" application. You can then layer the product to intensify the look. When using powders, use a blush brush (angled or rounded) and either pat lightly onto the cheeks or use light circular buffing motions. Cream blushes can be applied with the finger tips or synthetic brushes. Again, be sure to blend your blush so that there no hard lines or circles. Keep in mind that blushes come in matte and shimmery formulas...understand the look you're going for.  I love matte blushes and I apply heaviest toward the back of my cheek right on the cheek bone (toward hairline), with the lightest application on the apples of my cheeks.

Stay tuned. Part 3 of Talking Techniques coming soon.

Be blessed. Be beautiful.

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